What should you wear to a formal dinner, at college or otherwise? This is a quick guide to the most common situations.
To a Formal Dinner
The Dress Code
If there is (or you have been told of) a dress code, then that will serve as a baseline.
Full Evening Dress: This is White Tie. Pull the tailcoat out of the closet or rent one.
Black Tie or Evening Dress: Pull the dinner jacket out of the closet, and see our guide if you haven’t already.
Lounge Suit: Look at the suit you’ve got hanging on the hook (or draped over a chair): yes, this does mean matching trousers and jacket.
As it’s an evening occasion where a certain degree of formality is usually required, unless you’ve been given explicit instructions to the contrary (‘oh, we’re a casual college’) err on the side of at least a lounge suit.
The Smoking Jacket
A dinner jacket that’s made in a coloured velvet instead of black wool is known as a smoking jacket. Customarily it is only worn by hosts hosting their own dinners, so I would suggest that you reserve it for when you are having friends over at your own college. This is no longer as hard-and-fast a rule as it once was, however, so if you feel the occasion calls for it, it may not be a bad idea.
Neckwear
You should always wear a bow-tie with a dinner jacket. You need not wear a black one, however, though it should serve as the default: the appropriate-ness of any other tie should be measured against it.
Some colleges offer a ‘crested’ tie that is backed in black or other dark colour. The example that appears to the left is that of Magdalen. This is a good alternative option to the black bow tie.
In general, the further you go from the plain black, the more important it is to justify your choice: if only because you will often be asked ‘what’s that tie?’. Not being able to offer an explanation – or a good one – will mark you out as frivolous even if you might get a compliment to start (‘oh, what a lovely pattern!’). On the other hand, a good explanation to a zany tie (such as one patterned after the flag of Maryland, often worn by a friend of mine who is a Marylander) will elicit interest. This is because evening dress is a stricter dress code: paisleys, spots, and other patterns are perfectly acceptable in day dress.
Accessories
Further guidance on accessorising can be found here.
To a ‘Smart’ Occasion
Labels such as ‘smart’, ‘smart casual’, ‘business’, ‘professional’ have proliferated in recent years and are for reasons of the ambiguity inherent in these terms much to be deprecated. If you are writing invitations, consider something more specific such as ‘jacket and tie’ or ‘lounge suit’.
Be that as it may. You have been invited to an occasion and ‘Smart’ is the only instruction you have been given.
General Guidelines
Colours should be black, grey, dark navy blue, paired with a white shirt (or at least a shirt with white collars and cuffs).
Opportunities for colour under ‘smart’ would lie with socks, lapel pins, ties, or pocket squares; choose one or two of these maximum.
When in doubt, compensate elements of informality (mismatched tops and bottoms, for example) with elements of formality (a tie, a white shirt, for example).
For Gentlemen
I would suggest that the yardstick against which your outfit is to be measured is the lounge suit, and that would be the ceiling of formality. Being cautious would be to wear a lounge suit, just losing the tie. If you wish to be more adventurous, mix-and-match your jacket and trousers, keeping at all times to darker professional (grey, navy, brown) colours. Shoes should be black formal laced shoes.
A daytime occasion may be an opportunity for a slight relaxation: a navy blazer with brass buttons should be permissible.
Under no circumstance should shorts be worn.
If unsure, keep a tie in your pocket.
For Ladies
Knee-length or below cocktail dresses or a jacket, shirt/blouse and skirt combination. As with gentlemen, in the darker professional colours. Socks may as with gentlemen be coloured, but stockings should be black or neutral.
Laced shoes or closed-toe heels are called for.
To a ‘Smart Casual’ Occasion
Smart casual means you’re not in a t-shirt and shorts, but not in a stuffy lounge suit either (though a lounge suit without a tie will work, so if that’s all you’ve got, don’t worry).
What it does mean is that all components of your outfit, include shirts, jackets, trousers, and shoes, may be more casual. This does not mean that the options suitable for more formal occasions become unsuitable here; however, the limit is probably what you would wear with a lounge suit (so no patent leather shoes with smart casual).
The more casual options that become available with smart casual are:
Shirts: Should be collared but need not be buttoned all the way down (polo shirts acceptable) may be lighter and more colourful, such as pinks, greens, or creams, or textured, such linen.
Tops and Bottoms: Colours as abovementioned, but also textures such as a rough tweed or linen. Denim legwear may make an appearance here. Alternatives include knitwear instead of a jacket; you may go jacketless altogether. More acceptable for ladies than gentlemen are widely flared trousers.
Shoes: More interesting colours such as dark blue or burgundy. Textured such as suede, loafers, patterned brogues.